Ever feel like your kitchen scraps are just … well, trash? And then you see that pile of food waste growing bigger and bigger? It’s a common thing! But what if I told you that you can turn all that kitchen and yard stuff into amazing garden gold? Yep, that’s composting! And the coolest part? You don’t need a huge backyard or smelly piles. We’re talking about in-vessel composting—a neat, tidy way to make compost right at home. Stick around, and I’ll walk you through exactly how to do it, super easy.

What is In-Vessel Composting DIY? My Easy Take

So, what exactly is in-vessel composting DIY? Think of it as composting, but contained. Instead of a big open pile in your yard, you’re doing it inside a special bin or container. This is perfect if you have limited space, want to keep things tidy, or just prefer a more controlled approach. It’s like having a mini-compost factory working for you, tucked away neatly!

Why would you want to do this, right? Well, in-vessel composting is a fantastic way to:

• Reduce the amount of waste going to landfills.
• Create nutrient-rich food for your garden, plants, and lawn—for free!
• Skip the yucky stuff: fewer pests, less smell, and it’s just cleaner.
• Speed up the composting process compared to traditional methods.

It’s a win-win for your garden and the planet. Plus, it’s surprisingly simple to get started with your own in-vessel composting DIY project. Let’s break down how to do it, step-by-step.

Choosing Your In-Vessel Composting Magic Bin

The heart of your in-vessel composting DIY is the “vessel” itself. You have a few great options, and the best one for you depends on your space, budget, and how much composting you plan to do.

Option 1: The Store-Bought Tumbler (The Super Easy Route)

These are the most popular for a reason. They are designed specifically for composting, often made of sturdy plastic, and they spin! This spinning action is a game-changer because it aerates your compost and mixes everything up without you needing to turn it with a fork.

Pros:

• Very easy to use and mix.
• Keeps pests out effectively.
• Usually weatherproof and looks neat.
• Faster composting due to aeration.

Cons:

• Can be a bit pricey upfront.
• Capacity might be limited compared to large bins.
• Some can be heavy when full.

When picking one, look for durable materials, a good size for your needs, and easy access for adding scraps and collecting finished compost. Brands like Good Ideas Composters or Sun Joe often have well-regarded models.

Option 2: The DIY Bin (The Budget-Friendly & Fun Route)

Don’t want to buy a fancy bin? No problem! You can make your own. This often involves a plastic garbage bin or a wooden structure. The key is to make sure it has airflow and is easy to access.

DIY Garbage Bin Method:
Grab a large plastic garbage can with a lid. Drill lots of holes all over it – sides, bottom, everywhere! This is crucial for air to get in and for excess moisture to drain out. You can then either just fill it and let it compost, or you can get creative and rig it to spin (though this is more advanced!).

DIY Wooden Bin Method:
You can build a simple box from scrap wood. Leave gaps between the planks for airflow. You might want to add a hinged lid and a removable front or bottom for easy access to peek or harvest your compost.

Pros:

• Much cheaper, especially if you have scrap materials.
• Customizable to your space and needs.
• A fun and rewarding project!

Cons:

• Requires some basic DIY skills and tools.
• Might not be as pest-proof as commercial tumblers.
• May require more effort to aerate (turning with a fork or shovel).

Option 3: The Worm Composter (Vermicomposting)

This is a super neat variation of in-vessel composting DIY. Instead of relying on microbes to break down your scraps, you use special composting worms (like Red Wigglers). They eat your food scraps and “poop” out incredible compost called worm castings. These are like superfood for your plants!

Pros:

• Produces incredibly rich compost (worm castings).
• Can be done indoors or outdoors, even in small apartments.
• Relatively fast process with worms doing the work.

Cons:

• Requires managing live creatures (worms).
• Worms have specific temperature needs and diet preferences (no meat, dairy, or oily foods).
• Initial cost for worms and a bin can be a factor.

For this guide, we’ll focus on the more general in-vessel methods using a tumbler or a DIY bin, as vermicomposting has its own unique set of rules. But if worms sound cool, definitely look into it further!

What to Put In Your In-Vessel Composter (The Recipe for Great Compost)

Think of composting like cooking. You need the right ingredients in the right balance to get a delicious (or in this case, nutrient-rich) result. Compost thrives on a mix of “greens” (nitrogen-rich) and “browns” (carbon-rich).

The “Greens” (Nitrogen-Rich Materials)

These are usually moist and break down quickly. They provide nitrogen, which is like the protein for your compost pile.

• Fruit and vegetable scraps (peels, cores, stems)
• Coffee grounds and paper filters
• Tea bags (remove staples!)
• Grass clippings (use in thin layers to avoid matting)
• Plant trimmings (non-woody)
• Eggshells (crushed)

The “Browns” (Carbon-Rich Materials)

These are usually dry and provide carbon. They add bulk and allow air to circulate. Without enough browns, your compost can get slimy and smelly.

• Dry leaves
• Shredded newspaper or plain cardboard (no glossy ink or tape)
• Straw or hay
• Small twigs and branches (chopped up)
• Sawdust (from untreated wood only)
• Paper towels and napkins (if not greasy)

What NOT to Compost in Most In-Vessel Systems

Definitely Avoid	Why?
Meat, fish, bones, and dairy products	Attract pests, can smell bad, and take too long to break down in home systems.
Oily foods and grease	Slow decomposition, can create anaerobic (smelly) conditions.
Diseased plants	Can spread diseases to your garden if not fully composted. Best to bag and discard.
Weeds that have gone to seed	Seeds might survive and sprout in your garden.
Pet waste (dog and cat feces)	Can contain harmful pathogens. Only compostable in specialized, hot composting systems.
Coal or charcoal ash	Can contain harmful substances. Wood ash is okay in small amounts.
Treated wood products	Contain chemicals that are bad for your compost and garden.

The general rule of thumb for your in-vessel composting DIY is to aim for roughly a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of browns to greens by volume. Don’t stress too much about exact measurements; it’s more about getting a good balance. If it smells like ammonia, you need more browns. If it’s dry and not breaking down, you need more greens and maybe a little water.

Step-by-Step: Setting Up Your In-Vessel Composting DIY

Ready to get your hands dirty (or, well, not too dirty)? Let’s get your compost going!

Step 1: Choose Your Location

Your compost bin needs a good spot. For tumblers, consider placing it on level ground where it’s easy to access from all sides. If you’re building a DIY bin, the same applies.

• Accessibility: You’ll be adding scraps regularly and eventually harvesting compost. Make sure you can easily reach it with a wheelbarrow.
• Sunlight: A spot with partial sun is often ideal. Too much direct sun can dry it out too quickly, while full shade might keep it too cool and slow things down.
• Drainage: Ensure the area drains well so your bin doesn’t sit in a puddle.
• Convenience: Place it somewhere convenient to your kitchen and garden.

Step 2: Gather Your Materials

Besides your chosen vessel, you’ll need:

• “Greens”: Start collecting your kitchen scraps in a small container with a lid.
• “Browns”: Have a stash of dry leaves, shredded newspaper, or cardboard ready. A leaf rake and a shredder (or scissors) are handy for this.
• Water Source: A hose or watering can.
• Turning Tool (if needed): A compost fork, pitchfork, or shovel if you’re not using a tumbler.

Step 3: Start Layering!

Think of this as building a compost lasagna. The key is to alternate layers of greens and browns. This helps with airflow and prevents the dreaded compost pile smell.

For Tumblers:

1. Start with a layer of browns (about 4-6 inches). This provides a base and helps with drainage.
2. Add a layer of greens (about 2-4 inches).
3. Cover the greens with another layer of browns.
4. Add a little water to lightly moisten the materials – like a damp sponge, not soaking wet.
5. Continue layering as you add kitchen scraps and yard waste. Always try to finish with a layer of browns to cover the fresh greens and deter flies.

For DIY Bins:

1. Place your bin in its chosen spot. Ensure any drainage holes are clear.
2. Follow the same layering principle as above: browns first, then greens, then browns.
3. If your bin doesn’t have a lid, you might want to loosely cover it with a tarp or board to retain moisture and heat, while still allowing airflow.

Step 4: Mixing and Aeration

This is where your in-vessel composting DIY differs based on your bin. The goal is to give your compost microbes enough oxygen to do their job efficiently.

Tumblers:

• Once your tumbler has a decent amount of material (a third to half full), start tumbling it.
• Aim to give it a few spins every 2-3 days. This mixes everything and introduces air.
• Don’t overfill your tumbler, as it becomes harder to turn and mix effectively.

DIY Bins:

• You’ll need to turn your compost pile.
• Every week or two, use your compost fork or shovel to turn the material. Try to bring the outer layers to the inside and vice versa.
• If the material looks wet and clumpy, you might need to add more browns and turn it. If it looks dry, add a sprinkle of water while turning.

A good indicator of proper aeration is if your compost pile heats up in the center after a day or two. This is a sign that the microbes are working hard!

Step 5: Moisture Management

Compost needs to be moist to break down, but not waterlogged. The “damp sponge” analogy is your best friend here.

• Too Dry: If your compost seems dry and little is happening, add some water. Tumblers can be watered through their access doors. For DIY bins, carefully sprinkle water while you turn the pile.
• Too Wet: If your compost smells bad (sour or ammonia odors), it’s likely too wet and not getting enough air. Add a generous amount of browns (like shredded newspaper or dry leaves) and turn the pile thoroughly to work in the browns and improve air circulation.

The ideal moisture level allows microbes to thrive. You can check by squeezing a handful: a few drops of water should come out, but it shouldn’t be dripping.

Step 6: Patience and Harvesting!

This is the final stage! The time it takes for compost to be ready varies greatly depending on the materials, temperature, moisture, and how often you mix it. It can range from a few weeks to several months.

• Signs of Ready Compost: It will look dark and crumbly, like rich soil. It should smell earthy, not like rotting food or ammonia. You shouldn’t be able to identify the original materials (no recognizable banana peels!).
• Harvesting from Tumblers: Most tumblers have an opening to empty the bin. You might need to scrape out a bit to get to the finished compost.
• Harvesting from DIY Bins: You can either empty the entire bin and sort out the finished compost from the unfinished stuff at the bottom, or if you built a bin with a removable bottom or front, you can carefully scoop out the finished compost from the bottom.

What to do with finished compost:

• Screening (Optional): If you want super fine compost, you can run it through a screen (a frame with wire mesh) to remove any larger, unfinished bits. These bits can go back into your active compost bin.
• Use in the Garden: Mix it into your garden beds, use it as mulch around plants, add it to potting soil, or spread it on your lawn.

And that’s it! You’ve successfully completed your in-vessel composting DIY journey. You’ve turned waste into a valuable resource.

Troubleshooting Common In-Vessel Composting DIY Issues

Even with the best intentions, your compost bin might throw a curveball. Here are some common issues and how to fix them:

Issue: My compost smells bad (like rotten eggs or ammonia).

Cause: Too much nitrogen-rich “green” material, too much moisture, or lack of aeration.

Solution: Add more carbon-rich “brown” materials (dry leaves, shredded newspaper, cardboard). Turn the compost thoroughly to incorporate the browns and improve airflow. If it’s too wet, add more browns and ensure there’s a way for excess moisture to drain.

Issue: My compost isn’t heating up and seems slow.

Cause: Not enough moisture, not enough “greens” (nitrogen), or the pieces are too large.

Solution: Check the moisture level; it should feel like a damp sponge. Add more green materials if you’ve been leaning heavily on browns. Chop or shred larger items to increase surface area. Ensure your bin is in a location that gets some sun for warmth, if possible.

Issue: I see only flies or fruit flies.

Cause: Exposed food scraps (greens) at the top of the compost, potentially too wet.

Solution: Always bury fresh kitchen scraps under a layer of browns. Make sure your bin has a good lid or cover that seals reasonably well. If it’s too wet, follow the steps for a foul smell.

Issue: My compost is too wet and soggy.

Cause: Too much moisture, not enough aeration, or it’s in a very rainy location without proper drainage.

Solution: Add a good amount of dry brown materials (shredded cardboard is great for absorbing moisture). Turn the compost thoroughly. If it’s a DIY bin, ensure drainage holes are clear. If it’s a tumbler, try to avoid adding excessive liquid or watery scraps without balancing with browns.

Issue: My compost is dry and dusty.

Cause: Not enough moisture, too much sun/wind, or too many browns.</p

Ever feel like your kitchen scraps are just…trash? It’s a common feeling! But what if you could turn that waste into garden gold? It sounds fancy, but in-vessel composting is actually a super simple way to make rich compost right at home. Many people think it’s complicated or messy, but it doesn’t have to be. We’re going to break down exactly how to set up and manage your own in-vessel composting system, step-by-step. Get ready to transform your food waste into something amazing for your garden!

DIY In-Vessel Composting: Your Easy Guide to Kitchen Scraps Gold

Hey there, fellow DIYer and garden enthusiast! Troy D Harn here from TopChooser. I know that the idea of composting might sound a bit…earthy, maybe even a little daunting. You’ve probably seen those big, often messy compost bins outside. But today, we’re diving into something a little more contained and a whole lot more beginner-friendly: in-vessel composting DIY. This method is perfect for anyone who wants to compost kitchen scraps and yard waste without a huge mess, a bad smell, or taking up a ton of space. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or just a small patio, we can make this work!

My goal is to make this as easy as pie for you. We’ll cover what in-vessel composting is, why it’s awesome, what you’ll need, and how to actually do it. Think of me as your friendly neighbor walking you through it. No confusing jargon, just simple steps to get you composting like a pro in no time.

What Exactly is In-Vessel Composting?

Let’s clear the air right off the bat. In-vessel composting simply means you’re composting inside a contained unit, or a “vessel.” This could be a store-bought tumbler, a DIY bin made from wood or plastic, or even a repurposed barrel. The key is that it’s enclosed. This enclosure helps to keep things neat, prevent pests from getting in, and often speeds up the composting process because it holds in heat and moisture better than an open pile.

Unlike traditional open-pile composting, where contents are exposed to the elements and can sometimes attract unwanted critters or get too wet/dry, in-vessel systems offer more control. This makes it an ideal solution for urban dwellers, people with smaller yards, or anyone who prefers a tidier approach to composting.

Why Go In-Vessel? The Awesome Benefits!

So, why choose an enclosed system? The advantages stack up quickly, making it a favorite for many home composters:

• Reduced Odors: The enclosed nature significantly minimizes smells, which is a big plus if your composting bin is close to your house or your neighbors.
• Pest Deterrent: A secure lid and walls keep out critters like rodents and flies that might be attracted to an open compost pile.
• Faster Composting: The contained environment helps retain heat and moisture, which are crucial for the microbes to break down your organic materials more quickly.
• Neater Appearance: It looks much tidier than a sprawling compost heap. Perfect for smaller yards or patios.
• Moisture Control: It’s easier to manage the moisture levels inside a vessel, preventing the compost from becoming too dry or too soggy.
• Less Physical Effort: Many in-vessel systems, especially tumblers, make turning (aerating) the compost much easier.

Choosing Your DIY In-Vessel System

The beauty of DIY is customization! You can build your own or adapt something existing. Here are a few popular options for an in-vessel composting DIY project:

1. The Smart Tumbler (Store-Bought Inspiration, DIY Potential)

These are the most common commercially available in-vessel systems. They are barrels that rotate on an axle, making turning the compost super easy. You can certainly buy one, but you can also get inspired by their design to build your own!

2. The Simple Drum/Barrel Composter

This is a fantastic DIY option. You take a large plastic barrel (food-grade is best, often available cheaply or free from food/drink distributors), drill some holes for aeration, and add a way to mix it. Some people just use a compost aerator tool, while others add a central pipe or even try to make it a tumbler.

Materials often needed:

• Large plastic barrel with lid (55-gallon is common)
• Drill and various-sized drill bits
• Optional: Hinges, latches, wood for a stand, PVC pipe

3. The Pallet Bin with a Lid

If you have a bit more space and can source some old wooden pallets, you can build a sturdy, box-like compost bin. The key here is to add a lid made from more pallet wood or even a tarp to make it an “in-vessel” system. This offers good airflow but requires manual turning.

Materials often needed:

• 4-6 wooden pallets
• Screws or strong zip ties
• Hinges and latches for a lid (optional)
• Hardware cloth or chicken wire (to line sides if gaps are large)

For this guide, we’ll focus on the DIY Drum/Barrel Composter, as it’s one of the most accessible and effective in-vessel systems for beginners.

Building Your DIY Barrel Composter: Step-by-Step

Let’s get our hands a little dirty (but not too much!) and build this thing.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Safety glasses (always!)
• Work gloves
• Drill
• Drill bits: a small one (around 1/4 inch) for aeration and a larger one (around 1 inch) for drainage.
• Measuring tape
• Marker
• Optional: Jigsaw or reciprocating saw if you want to cut an access door.

Materials:

• One clean, food-grade plastic barrel (55-gallon is a good size). Make sure it’s thoroughly washed out!
• A sturdy lid that seals well.

The Build Process:

1. Clean the Barrel: This is super important. Make sure there are no residues from whatever was in there before. Soap and water, rinse thoroughly, and let it dry.
2. Drill Aeration Holes: Using your 1/4-inch drill bit, drill holes all over the barrel – sides, top, and bottom. Space them about 4-6 inches apart. These are crucial for the microbes to breathe! More holes are generally better.
3. Drill Drainage Holes: Use the larger drill bit (1 inch) to drill a few holes in the very bottom of the barrel. This allows excess water to escape, preventing your compost from becoming a soggy mess.
4. Optional: Create an Access Door: If you want easier access to turn or empty your compost, you can cut a large door on the side of the barrel. Use a jigsaw or reciprocating saw. You’ll want to make a removable panel or use hinges and a latch to secure it. This is a bit more advanced but very handy!
5. Optional: Build a Stand: To make turning easier (especially if you want to manually rock it) or to allow for better drainage, you can build a simple wooden stand for the barrel to sit on.
6. Secure the Lid: Make sure the lid fits tightly. You might want to add some bungee cords or a simple clamp if it feels loose.

And voilà! You’ve got your DIY in-vessel compost bin.

What Can You Compost Actually? (The Green and Brown Stuff)

Composting is like cooking for your soil microbes. They need a balanced diet! You’ll be adding two main types of ingredients:

“Greens” (Nitrogen-rich materials):

• Fruit and vegetable scraps (peels, cores, rinds)
• Coffee grounds and tea bags
• Grass clippings (in thin layers to avoid matting)
• Fresh plant trimmings
• Eggshells (crushed)

“Browns” (Carbon-rich materials):

• Dry leaves
• Shredded newspaper or cardboard (avoid glossy prints)
• Straw or hay
• Small twigs and wood chips
• Sawdust (from untreated wood)
• Paper towels and napkins (unsoiled)

Think of greens as the “protein” and browns as the “carbs” for your compost. A good mix is key!

What NOT to Compost

Some things just don’t belong in your compost bin:

• Meat, fish, and bones (can attract pests and cause odors)
• Dairy products (same reasons as meat)
• Oily or greasy foods
• Diseased plants
• Weeds that have gone to seed (seeds might survive and sprout)
• Pet waste (dog and cat feces can contain pathogens)
• Treated wood or sawdust from treated wood
• Coal or charcoal ash

The Art of Layering and Mixing

The secret to successful in-vessel composting is balance – both in the ingredients and in the process. You want to aim for a good ratio of greens to browns, roughly 1 part green to 2-3 parts brown by volume. Don’t get too hung up on exact measurements, though. It’s more about seeing the result.

Starting Your Bin:

Begin by adding a layer of browns (like twigs or shredded cardboard) at the bottom. This helps with drainage and airflow.

Then, start adding your kitchen scraps (greens) and other yard waste (more browns). Try to bury food scraps under a layer of browns to further deter pests and odors.

Adding New Materials:

When you add new kitchen scraps, try to mix them in with the existing material and cover them with browns. This keeps the pile active and balanced.

Turning Your Compost: The Key to Speed

This is where “in-vessel” really shines, especially with a tumbler or a barrel you can rock. Aeration is vital because the microbes that break down organic matter need oxygen. Without it, your compost can become anaerobic, leading to foul smells and slower decomposition.

How Often to Turn:

For a DIY barrel or tumbler, aim to turn it every 1-2 weeks. If you don’t have a tumbler, you’ll need to use a compost aerator tool or a pitchfork to mix the contents thoroughly. If you cut an access door, you can fork out the material, mix it, and fork it back in.

What to Look For:

When you turn it, you should see different stages of decomposition. Some parts will look like fresh scraps, while others will be breaking down. The goal is to mix the drier outer layers with the moister inner layers and introduce oxygen throughout.

Moisture Management: Not Too Wet, Not Too Dry

Your compost should feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge. Too dry? The microbes dry out and stop working. Too wet? They can suffocate and start to smell.

• If it’s too wet: Add more browns (shredded newspaper, dry leaves) and turn it well. The browns will absorb excess moisture. Ensure drainage holes aren’t blocked.
• If it’s too dry: Add some water. A watering can or hose works. Turn it thoroughly to distribute the moisture evenly.

The holes in your barrel are great for evaporation, but if you live in a very wet climate, you might want to cover the top partially during prolonged rainy periods, while still allowing for airflow.

When is it Ready? The Magic of Finished Compost

Patience is a virtue when composting! Finished compost, also known as humus, is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy – like a forest floor after a rain. You shouldn’t be able to recognize the original food scraps or yard waste.

The time it takes can vary a lot, from just a few weeks to several months. Factors include:

• Temperature: Warmer weather usually speeds things up.
• Ratio of Greens to Browns: A good balance is crucial.
• Aeration: How often you turn it.
• Moisture Level: Keeping it just right.

Once it’s ready, you can use it in your garden beds, potting mix, or around trees and shrubs. It’s pure goodness for your plants!

Troubleshooting Common In-Vessel Composting Hiccups

Even with the best intentions, sometimes things go a little…off. Here’s how to fix common issues:

Problem: It Smells Bad (Rotten Eggs or Ammonia)

• Cause: Too many greens (nitrogen) or it’s too wet, leading to anaerobic conditions.
• Fix: Add a generous amount of browns (shredded cardboard, dry leaves) and turn it thoroughly to aerate. Ensure drainage is clear.

Problem: Pests (Flies, Rodents)

Cause: Open access points, exposed food scraps, or wrong materials are being added.

Fix: Ensure your vessel is well-sealed. Always bury food scraps under a layer of browns. Double-check that you’re not adding meat, dairy, or oily foods. For DIY bins, consider lining the inside with hardware cloth if gaps are large.

Problem: Nothing Seems to Be Happening

Cause: Compost is too dry, too wet, lacks air, or the balance of greens to browns is off.

Fix: Check moisture levels and adjust. Turn it to add air. Add more greens if it seems too sluggish and brown-heavy, or more browns if it’s too wet and smelly.

Problem: The Compost is Too Wet

Cause: Too much liquid from kitchen scraps or rain, not enough airflow, or blocked drainage.

Fix: Add dry brown materials like shredded paper, cardboard, or straw and mix well. Ensure drainage holes are clear and that the lid isn’t trapping too much moisture while still allowing some air in.

The “Browns” vs. “Greens” Ratio Table

Here’s a quick look at what goes where. Remember, this is a guideline, not a strict rule!

Category	Also Known As	Examples	Primary Nutrient
Greens	Nitrogen-rich materials	Fruit & Veggie Scraps Coffee Grounds & Tea Bags Grass Clippings Fresh Plant Trimmings	Nitrogen
Browns	Carbon-rich materials	Dry Leaves Shredded Newspaper/Cardboard Straw or Hay Small Twigs Sawdust (untreated wood)	Carbon

The Importance of Aeration and Microbes

Inside your compost bin, a tiny world of activity is happening! Billions of microorganisms – like bacteria and fungi – are working hard to break down all that organic matter. They’re microscopic heroes!

These microbes need a few things to thrive:

• Food: Your greens and browns provide their energy.
• Water: They need a moist environment.
• Air (Oxygen): This is where turning and aeration holes come in. Aerobic microbes (the ones that need oxygen) are the most efficient and don’t produce foul smells.

For more on the science of composting and the role of microbes, check out resources from university extension offices. Many offer free guides on composting basics, like this Compost FAQ by NC State University Extension, which provides excellent, research-backed information.

In-Vessel Composting vs. Other Methods

You might be wondering how in-vessel composting DIY stacks up against other methods like traditional open piles or vermicomposting (worm composting).

Open Piles:

• Pros: Can handle large volumes of material, simple to start.
• Cons: Can attract pests, may smell if not managed well, can dry out or get waterlogged easily, takes up more space.

Vermicomposting:

• Pros
  
  

  Troy D. Harn

  I am passionate about home engineering. I specialize in designing, installing, and maintaining heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems. My goal is to help people stay comfortable in their homes all year long.