Windrow Composting How To: Essential Guide

Ever look at your yard waste and kitchen scraps and wonder if there’s a better way than just tossing them? Composting is a fantastic way to turn that “waste” into rich, healthy soil for your garden. If you have a bit more space or produce a good amount of organic material, windrow composting might be your perfect solution. It sounds high-tech, but it’s really just a simple method anyone can use. We’ll break down exactly how to do it, step by step, so you can start making your own black gold!

What is Windrow Composting and Why Should You Care?

Simply put, windrow composting is a method where you pile organic materials into long, narrow mounds, called “windrows.” Think of it like a long garden bed, but instead of planting in it, you’re building a system to create compost.

Why is this a big deal? Well, for starters, it’s incredibly efficient if you’ve got the space. It allows for larger volumes of material to be composted quickly. This means you get more nutrient-rich compost faster, which is amazing for your garden. Using your own compost reduces the need for store-bought fertilizers, saving you money and being kinder to the environment.

Plus, it’s a rewarding process! You’re actively participating in a natural cycle, reducing landfill waste, and enriching your soil. It’s a win-win for your garden and the planet.

The Benefits of Windrow Composting

Let’s chat about why windrow composting is often a preferred method for larger-scale composting:

• Speed: When managed correctly, windrows can decompose organic matter much faster than smaller compost bins.
• Volume: It’s ideal for handling larger amounts of yard waste, agricultural byproducts, or food scraps from a community garden or even a small farm.
• Aeration: The long, narrow shape naturally allows for good air circulation, which is crucial for healthy decomposition.
• Temperature Control: Larger volumes help the pile heat up effectively, killing weed seeds and pathogens.
• Cost-Effective (for volume): While it requires space, it doesn’t necessarily need fancy equipment to get started.

Getting Started: What You’ll Need for Windrow Composting

The beauty of windrow composting is its simplicity. You don’t need a lot of fancy gear, especially when you’re just starting out. Here’s a quick rundown of what’s helpful:

Essential Materials

• Organic Matter: This is your main ingredient! You’ll need a good mix of “greens” (nitrogen-rich) and “browns” (carbon-rich).
• Space: You’ll need an area that’s roughly 3 feet wide by 6-8 feet long for each windrow, and you’ll want some space between them for turning.
• Water Source: A hose or access to water is essential for keeping the pile moist.

Helpful Tools

While not strictly necessary at first, these tools will make your life much easier:

• Pitchfork or Shovel: For turning the compost pile. A pitchfork is especially good for aerating.
• Wheelbarrow: To move materials to and from the composting area.
• Garden Hose with a Sprayer Nozzle: For consistent watering.
• Compost Thermometer (Optional but Recommended): To monitor the temperature inside the pile. This helps ensure it’s heating up properly.

The “Greens” and “Browns”: Your Composting Ingredients

Composting is all about balance. You need a good mix of nitrogen-rich materials (the “greens”) and carbon-rich materials (the “browns”). Think of it like a balanced diet for your compost microorganisms.

Greens (Nitrogen-Rich)

These materials are typically moist and add nitrogen, which helps the microorganisms break down the material and heat up the pile.

• Fruit and vegetable scraps
• Grass clippings
• Coffee grounds and tea bags
• Plant trimmings (non-woody)
• Manure (from herbivores like cows, horses, chickens – avoid pet waste)

Browns (Carbon-Rich)

These materials are drier and provide carbon, which feeds the microorganisms and adds structure to the pile, allowing for air flow.

• Dry leaves
• Straw or hay
• Shredded newspaper or cardboard (avoid glossy or colored inks if possible)
• Wood chips or sawdust (in moderation)
• Twigs and small branches

The Golden Ratio: Aim for a ratio of about 25-30 parts carbon (browns) to 1 part nitrogen (greens) by weight. In practice, this often looks like about 2 to 3 “buckets” of browns for every 1 “bucket” of greens.

It’s important to chop or shred larger items to speed up decomposition. You don’t want big chunks mucking up the process.

Step-by-Step: How to Build Your First Windrow

Ready to get your hands dirty? Here’s how to build your windrow compost pile.

Step 1: Choose Your Location

Find a spot that has good drainage (you don’t want your compost sitting in a puddle), is relatively level, and has easy access for adding materials and turning. It’s best to avoid direct, scorching sunlight all day, as it can dry out your pile too quickly. Some shade is good. Make sure you have enough room to work around the pile.

Step 2: Prepare the Base

Start by laying down a layer of coarse, brown materials like twigs or small branches. This helps with aeration from the bottom up and prevents the pile from becoming a soggy mess. Aim for a base about 4-8 inches thick.

Step 3: Start Layering

Now, begin adding your “greens” and “browns.” The best way to do this is to alternate layers. Start with a layer of greens, then cover it with a thicker layer of browns. Continue alternating, trying to maintain that roughly 2-3 parts brown to 1 part green ratio.

Pro Tip: If you’re adding a lot of one type of material (like grass clippings, which are very green), mix it with a good amount of browns right away to keep the nitrogen and carbon balanced. Don’t let big clumps of green material sit alone.

Step 4: Moisten as You Go

As you build your layers, lightly water each one. The goal is for the materials to be as damp as a wrung-out sponge. If you squeeze a handful, only a drop or two of water should come out. Too wet and your pile can become anaerobic (stinky!); too dry and the decomposition process will slow down significantly.

Step 5: Build the Pile to the Right Size

For optimal heating and decomposition, a windrow should be at least 3 feet tall, 3 feet wide, and 6-8 feet long. The larger volume helps the pile reach and maintain the high temperatures needed to break down materials efficiently and kill weed seeds and pathogens.

You can build your first windrow all at once if you have enough materials, or you can add to it over time. If you add materials incrementally, try to keep the fresh materials towards the outer edges or mix them in as much as possible.

A good place for external information on composting basics is the EPA’s composting page, which offers great foundational knowledge applicable to all methods.

Maintaining Your Windrow: Turning, Moisture, and Temperature

Building the pile is just the first step. The real “magic” happens with regular maintenance. This is what keeps your compost cooking!

Turning Your Windrow

This is perhaps the most critical part of windrow composting. Turning introduces oxygen, which is vital for the aerobic bacteria that do the heavy lifting. It also helps distribute moisture and heat throughout the pile, ensuring everything breaks down evenly.

• Frequency: For the fastest compost, turn your windrow every 1-2 weeks. If you’re less concerned about speed, you can turn it every 3-4 weeks.
• How to Turn: Use your pitchfork or shovel to move the outer layers of the pile to the center, and bring the inner material to the outside. Mix everything thoroughly. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just aim to mix it up.
• What to Look For: As you turn, check for moisture. If it seems dry, add water. If it seems too wet and matted, try to incorporate more brown material.

Managing Moisture Levels

As mentioned before, the ideal moisture level is like a wrung-out sponge.

• Too Dry? If your pile isn’t heating up and feels dry, it’s time to water. Hook up your hose and water the pile as you turn it, ensuring the water penetrates.
• Too Wet? If your pile smells like ammonia or rotten eggs, it’s likely too wet and not getting enough air. Add plenty of brown, carbon-rich materials (like shredded cardboard or dry leaves) and turn the pile thoroughly to introduce air.

Monitoring Temperature

A compost thermometer is a fantastic tool for beginners. You want your pile to heat up to between 130-160°F (54-71°C). This “thermophilic” stage is crucial for killing weed seeds and pathogens.

If your pile isn’t heating up sufficiently, it might be too small, too dry, lack enough green material, or not be turned often enough. If it gets too hot (above 160°F), it might mean it’s too dense or has too much green material. A good turning will help regulate this.

The Oregon State University Extension offers excellent, practical guides on home composting, including detailed information on temperature and turning.

What Can You Compost? A Helpful Chart

Knowing what goes in and what stays out is key to successful composting. Here’s a quick reference:

Can Compost (Greens & Browns)	Should NOT Compost
Fruits and vegetables	Meat, fish, or bones (attract pests, smell bad)
Coffee grounds and tea bags	Dairy products (attract pests, smell bad)
Grass clippings	Oils, grease, or fatty foods (slow decomposition, attract pests)
Eggshells	Diseased plants (can spread disease)
Leaves and yard trimmings	Weeds that have gone to seed (may not kill seeds)
Shredded newspaper and cardboard	Pet waste (dog or cat feces – can contain pathogens)
Straw and hay	Chemically treated wood or yard waste
Sawdust (from untreated wood)	Coal ash
Twigs and small branches	Synthetic materials

Troubleshooting Common Windrow Composting Problems

Even with the best intentions, sometimes your compost pile can have a mind of its own. Here are a few common issues and how to fix them:

Problem: My compost pile smells bad!

Likely Cause: Too much moisture, not enough air (anaerobic conditions), or too much green material. Ammonia smells usually mean too much nitrogen, while rotten egg smells often point to very wet, airless conditions.

Solution: Turn the pile thoroughly to introduce air. Mix in plenty of dry, brown materials like leaves, straw, or shredded cardboard. Ensure the pile isn’t waterlogged.

Problem: My compost pile isn’t heating up.

Likely Cause: Pile is too small, too dry, lacks nitrogen (greens), or isn’t being turned enough.

Solution: Check the moisture; water if dry. Add more green materials (like grass clippings or kitchen scraps). Ensure the pile is at least 3x3x3 feet. Turn the pile more frequently if you are not.

Problem: There are pests in my compost pile.

Likely Cause: You might be adding materials that attract pests, like meat, dairy, or fatty foods. The pile might also be too dry, making it easier for critters to burrow.

Solution: Stop adding meat, dairy, and oily foods. Make sure your pile is moist. Bury kitchen scraps deeply within the pile, covering them with brown material. Turning the pile regularly can also deter some pests.

Problem: My compost is taking forever to break down.

Likely Cause: Materials are too large, the pile is consistently too dry or too wet, or it’s not being turned.

Solution: Chop or shred larger materials before adding them. Maintain proper moisture and turn the pile at least every 1-2 weeks. Ensure there’s a good mix of greens and browns.

For more in-depth troubleshooting, check out resources from university agricultural extensions. For example, University of Minnesota Extension has great composting guides.

When is Your Windrow Compost Ready?

You’ll know your compost is ready when it looks, smells, and feels right.

• Appearance: It will be dark brown or black, crumbly, and uniform in texture. You shouldn’t be able to distinguish the original materials (like banana peels or leaves).
• Smell: It should have a pleasant, earthy aroma, like fresh soil after a rain. No ammonia or rotten smells!
• Temperature: The pile will no longer be heating up; it will be at ambient temperature.

Depending on how diligently you manage your windrow, compost can be ready in as little as 2-3 months or take up to a year. Once ready, you can harvest it from the bottom of the pile or by turning the finished material off to the side.

You can sift your finished compost through a screen (a simple hardware cloth stapled to a wooden frame works well) to remove any larger, unfinished pieces. These can go back into a new compost pile.

Frequently Asked Questions About Windrow Composting

What is the ideal size for a windrow?

For efficient heating and decomposition, a windrow should be at least 3 feet tall, 3 feet wide, and ideally 6 to 8 feet long. Larger dimensions help maintain the internal temperatures needed for composting.

How often should I turn my compost windrow?

To get compost quickly, aim to turn it every 1 to 2 weeks. For a more relaxed approach, turning every 3 to 4 weeks is acceptable, but it will take longer.

What’s the biggest mistake beginners make with windrow composting?

Often, it’s not getting the right balance of “greens” (nitrogen) and “browns” (carbon), or not turning the pile enough. This can lead to smells, slow decomposition, or a pile that won’t heat up.

Can I compost manure in a windrow?

Yes, but only manure from herbivores like cows, horses, rabbits, or chickens. Avoid dog and cat feces, as they can contain harmful pathogens. Always ensure it’s well-mixed with brown materials.

How do I know if my windrow is too wet or too dry?

Squeeze a handful of material: if only a drop or two of water comes out, it’s just right. If water streams out, it’s too wet. If it crumbles apart easily and feels dusty, it’s too dry.

How long does it take for windrow compost to be ready?

With regular turning and proper management, compost can be ready in as little as 2-3 months. If managed less actively, it can take 6-12 months or longer.

Conclusion: Your Composting Journey Starts Now!

See? Windrow composting isn’t some mystical garden art; it’s a practical, effective way to create incredible soil right in your backyard. By understanding the basics of greens and browns, maintaining moisture, and giving your pile regular turns, you’re well on your way to producing nutrient-rich compost.

It takes a little effort, but the rewards are immense. You’ll be feeding your garden with homemade goodness,