Hey there! Feeling like your kitchen scraps are just piling up, and the thought of tossing them feels like a waste? Composting at home, especially indoors, might sound complicated or expensive, but trust me, it doesn’t have to be! We’re going to break down how to compost indoors without breaking the bank. Get ready to turn your trash into gardening gold, the affordable way.
Indoor Composting on a Budget: Your Wallet-Friendly Guide
Welcome to the wonderful world of indoor composting! As Troy D Harn from TopChooser, my goal is to make home projects, gardening, and yes, even composting, super easy and affordable for everyone. You don’t need fancy equipment or a huge backyard to make nutrient-rich compost. We’re talking about slashing your food waste and boosting your houseplants or balcony garden with simple, inexpensive methods. Stick with me, and by the end of this guide, you’ll be a composting pro!
Why Compost Indoors?
Composting is a fantastic way to reduce the amount of waste you send to the landfill. Instead of just throwing away vegetable peels, coffee grounds, and eggshells, you can transform them into valuable fertilizer. This is especially great for folks living in apartments or homes without outdoor space. Plus, it cuts down on greenhouse gases produced by rotting food in landfills. It’s a win for your wallet, your plants, and the planet!
Key Benefits of Indoor Composting
- Reduces Waste: Divert a significant portion of your household waste from landfills.
- Creates Free Fertilizer: Your plants will thank you for the rich, homemade nutrients.
- Saves Money: Buy fewer fertilizers and soil amendments for your plants.
- Environmentally Friendly: Lower your carbon footprint and contribute to a healthier planet.
- Odor Control: When done correctly, indoor composting systems are designed to be odor-free.
Choosing Your Cheap Indoor Composting Method
The secret to cheap indoor composting is picking the right method for your space and lifestyle. We’ll look at a few popular, budget-friendly options. Each has its pros and cons, but all can be done without spending a fortune.
1. The Simple Bucket Method (Worm Composting Lite)
This is perhaps the simplest and cheapest way to start. You don’t even need worms to begin!
What You’ll Need:
- A clean, dark-colored plastic bucket with a lid (a recycled food-grade bucket works great).
- A drill with a 1/4-inch drill bit (or something similar to make small holes).
- Optional: A second, slightly larger bucket for collecting any liquid.
How to Set It Up:
- Drill Holes: Drill several small holes in the bottom and sides of your bucket. These are crucial for air circulation and drainage. About 6-8 holes on the bottom and a few more around the sides should do it.
- Add a Layer of Carbon: Start with a few inches of “brown” materials at the bottom. This could be shredded newspaper, dry leaves, or sawdust. This layer helps absorb moisture and prevent smells.
- Start Adding Scraps: Begin adding your kitchen scraps (more on what to add later!). Bury these scraps under the brown material to keep pests away and reduce odors.
- The Lid: Place the lid on the bucket, but don’t seal it tightly if you don’t have extra drainage holes. You still want some air to get in.
- Drainage (Optional but Recommended): If you plan on collecting liquid, place your drilled bucket inside a slightly larger, solid bucket. The liquid (called “compost tea”) will drain into the bottom bucket.
Pros:
- Extremely inexpensive, often using recycled materials.
- Simple to set up.
- Takes up minimal space.
Cons:
- Can be slower than other methods.
- Requires more frequent turning or mixing to aerate.
- Potential for odor if not managed properly (enough browns, not too wet).
2. The DIY Worm Bin (Vermicomposting)
This is the classic indoor composting method, and it’s surprisingly affordable to set up yourself. Red wiggler worms do most of the work, munching through your food scraps at an incredible rate.
What You’ll Need:
- Two opaque plastic storage totes (around 10-14 gallons each) with lids. Opaque is better because worms don’t like light.
- A drill with various drill bit sizes (1/8-inch and 1/4-inch).
- Bedding material: Shredded newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, or peat moss.
- Red Wiggler Worms: You can often buy starter kits online or from local bait shops. For a budget approach, ask gardening friends if they have extra worms!
- Kitchen scraps (the worms’ food!).
How to Set It Up:
- Prepare the Lid: Take one lid and drill many small 1/8-inch holes all over it for ventilation.
- Prepare the Bin: Take the second tote (this will be your primary bin). Drill about 10-15 1/4-inch holes in the bottom for drainage. Drill a few more 1/4-inch holes near the top rim for air.
- Prepare the Second Bin (Optional Catcher): Take the third tote (this will sit below the bin to catch leachate, or compost tea). You don’t need to drill holes in this one.
- Add Bedding: Moisten your bedding material until it feels like a wrung-out sponge. Place this into the drilled bin, filling it about halfway to two-thirds full.
- Introduce the Worms: Gently place your red wigglers on top of the bedding. They will burrow down.
- Add a Little Food: Bury a small amount of food scraps (about a handful) into the bedding.
- Assemble the Bin: Place the drilled bin inside the non-drilled bin. Put the lid with the air holes on top of the drilled bin.
Pros:
- Very efficient at breaking down food scraps.
- Produces nutrient-rich compost and liquid fertilizer.
- Relatively odor-free when managed correctly.
- Can be made very cheaply with recycled bins.
Cons:
- Requires purchasing specific worms (though this is a one-time cost).
- Can be sensitive to temperature fluctuations.
- Need to learn worm-specific feeding habits.
For more detailed information on setting up a worm bin, check out the EPA’s guide to composting, which touches on vermicomposting as a great option.
3. The Bokashi Bin System (Fermentation First)
Bokashi isn’t traditional composting, but it’s an excellent pre-composting method for indoor use that’s very affordable to start. It uses fermentation to break down food scraps, including things other composting methods can’t handle, like meat and dairy. You’ll need special Bokashi bran, but a little goes a long way.
What You’ll Need:
- Two airtight buckets with lids (5-gallon buckets from a hardware store are perfect). Look for ones that can seal well.
- Bokashi bran: This is inoculated with beneficial microbes. You can buy it online.
- Kitchen scraps.
How to Set It Up:
- Prepare the Bin: You don’t need to drill holes for Bokashi. The key is airtightness.
- Add Scraps: Place your kitchen scraps into the first bucket. It’s best to chop them into smaller pieces.
- Sprinkle Bran: Sprinkle a tablespoon or two of Bokashi bran over the scraps, ensuring it coats them well.
- Compact: Press the scraps down to remove as much air as possible.
- Seal and Repeat: Close the lid tightly. Once the first bucket is full, start filling the second bucket using the same process.
- Ferment: Once a bucket is full, let it sit for at least two weeks (or longer) to ferment. You’ll notice a sweet, pickly smell.
- Bury or Add to Compost: After fermentation, you’ll have a pickled food product. It’s not finished compost yet. You can bury this in an outdoor garden bed, a larger compost pile, or add it to a worm bin where the worms will love it.
Pros:
- Can process a wider range of food scraps (meat, dairy, oils).
- Very fast pre-composting process.
- Airtight system means no odors and no pests attracted to the bin.
- Produces a nutrient-rich liquid (“Bokashi tea”) that can be diluted as a plant fertilizer.
Cons:
- Requires purchasing Bokashi bran, which is an ongoing cost (though a small amount is needed per batch).
- The fermented product needs a second step (burial or adding to another compost system) to become fully composted soil.
What to Compost (and What to Avoid)
Knowing what goes into your indoor compost bin is crucial for success and preventing odors or attracting pests.
Good “Greens” (Nitrogen-Rich):
- Fruit scraps (peels, cores, rinds)
- Vegetable scraps (peels, stems, leaves)
- Coffee grounds and tea bags (remove staples/plastic)
- Eggshells (crushed)
- Houseplant trimmings
Good “Browns” (Carbon-Rich):
- Shredded newspaper and junk mail (non-glossy)
- Shredded cardboard
- Dry leaves (if you have access)
- Sawdust (from untreated wood)
- Paper towels and napkins (if not greasy or laden with chemicals)
What to Avoid (Mostly for Indoor Bins):
- Meat, fish, and bones (attract pests, can smell)
- Dairy products (attract pests, can smell)
- Oily foods and fats (slow down composting, can smell)
- Diseased plants
- Weeds that have gone to seed
- Pet waste (dog and cat feces can contain pathogens)
- Inorganic materials (plastic, metal, glass)
- Treated wood or paper products
For worm bins, avoid citrus in large quantities, onions, garlic, and anything spicy. Bokashi can handle most of these.
Maintaining Your Cheap Indoor Compost System
Keeping your indoor compost happy and healthy is simple with a few basic steps. The goal is a balanced environment.
Moisture Levels:
Your compost should be about as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Too dry, and it won’t break down. Too wet, and it can become stinky and anaerobic (lacking air). Add more brown materials if it’s too wet, and add a little water if it seems too dry.
Aeration (Airflow):
This is key to preventing smells and helping decomposition. In the bucket method, you’ll need to stir or turn the contents every week or two. For worm bins, the worms do a lot of the mixing, but ensure there’s good air circulation from the holes. Bokashi relies on an airtight seal, so aeration isn’t an issue until you’re ready to bury the fermented material.
“Feeding” Your Compost:
When using the bucket or worm bin method, bury your fresh kitchen scraps under the existing compost or bedding material. This helps prevent fruit flies and odors. Start with small amounts, especially in worm bins, and increase as you see your system processing scraps efficiently.
Pest Control:
The best defense against pests is proper management. Avoid adding forbidden items (meat, dairy, oils). Ensure your lid is secure. Burying food scraps helps too. If fruit flies become an issue, a simple trap can be made with a small amount of apple cider vinegar in a jar with a few drops of dish soap. Cover the top with plastic wrap and poke a few small holes.
Troubleshooting Common Indoor Composting Issues
Even with the best intentions, you might run into a few hiccups. Here’s how to fix them:
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Bad Odors (Rotten Egg, Sour) | Too wet; not enough air; too many “greens” added at once. | Add more “brown” carbon materials (shredded paper/cardboard). Stir or turn to aerate. Bury food scraps deeper. Reduce the amount of food scraps added until it balances out. Ensure “greens” and “browns” are roughly balanced. |
| Fruit Flies or Gnats | Food scraps are exposed or not buried properly. | Always bury fresh food scraps under at least 2-3 inches of existing compost or bedding. Ensure the lid is secure. Try a simple vinegar trap for any existing flies. Avoid adding overly sweet fruits in large quantities. |
| Compost is Too Wet | Too much moisture in food scraps; poor drainage. | Add more dry “brown” materials. Squeeze out excess moisture from food scraps before adding them if possible. Ensure drainage holes are clear. If using a worm bin, check if the worm bin is sitting in pooled liquid and empty it. |
| Compost is Too Dry | Not enough moisture; too many brown materials. | Lightly mist the compost with water from a spray bottle. Mix in more moist “green” materials (like fruit/veg scraps). Ensure there’s enough moisture in your bedding for worm bins. |
| Slow Decomposition | Too cold; not enough aeration; lack of “green” nitrogen material. | Move the compost bin to a warmer location if possible. Stir or turn more frequently. Ensure you’re adding a good mix of nitrogen-rich “greens” and carbon-rich “browns”. For worm bins, ensure the worms are healthy and active. |
| Attracting Pests (Rodents, etc.) | Forbidden items (meat, dairy, oils) were added. | Immediately remove any prohibited items. Ensure the bin lid is secure and the bin itself is impenetrable. For small bins, consider placing them inside a larger container or cupboard. |
Remember, composting is a living process. A little patience and observation go a long way!
When is My Indoor Compost Ready?
The “ready” stage depends on your method. For simple bucket composting or DIY worm bins:
- Appearance: The material will look dark brown and crumbly, like rich soil.
- Texture: You shouldn’t be able to recognize the original food scraps anymore.
- Smell: It should smell earthy, like a forest floor after rain, not like rotting food.
- Timeframe: This can take anywhere from 2-6 months, depending on how actively you manage it, the temperature, and the materials added.
For Bokashi, the fermented material is ready after about 2-4 weeks of fermentation. It needs to be buried or added to another composting system to fully break down into usable humus. The resulting “compost tea” from either worm bins or Bokashi can be used as a liquid fertilizer once diluted.
Using Your Finished Compost
Once your compost is ready, you can:
- Amend Houseplant Soil: Mix a portion of compost into your potting soil for a nutrient boost. About 1 part compost to 3 parts potting soil is a good starting point.
- Top Dress Plants: Spread a thin layer of compost around the base of your houseplants or outdoor container plants.
- Start Seeds: Mix compost with sterile seed-starting mix for a great base for growing your own seedlings.
- Make Compost Tea: Steep mature compost in water (aerated or not) to create a nutrient-rich liquid fertilizer.
Cost Breakdown: The “Cheap” Factor
Let’s talk numbers. The beauty of these methods is their low cost:
- Bucket Method: $0 – $5 (if you need to buy a new bucket, but often free from restaurants or bakeries).
- DIY Worm Bin: $15 – $40 (for bins, drill bits if you don’t have them,
I am passionate about home engineering. I specialize in designing, installing, and maintaining heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems. My goal is to help people stay comfortable in their homes all year long.