Want to turn your food scraps and yard waste into garden gold without spending a fortune? Composting is awesome, but sometimes the fancy bins and methods can seem a bit much. What if I told you there’s a super affordable, almost “set it and forget it” way to compost using a method that doesn’t even need air? Yep, we’re talking about cheap anaerobic composting! It might sound a little scientific, but stick with me – it’s way simpler than you think and incredibly effective for giving your garden a nutrient boost. We’ll walk through exactly how to do it, what you need (spoiler: not much!), and why it’s such a smart choice for your wallet and your plants.
Let’s dive in and make some amazing compost the easy, cheap way!
Anaerobic Composting Cheap: Your Genius, Affordable Method
Hey there, fellow gardeners and DIY enthusiasts! Troy D Harn here from TopChooser, and I’m all about finding the smartest, most budget-friendly ways to make your home and garden dreams a reality. Today, we’re tackling composting, a topic that’s fantastic for your garden and the planet. But forget those pricey, complicated systems. We’re going to explore a super simple and incredibly cheap method: anaerobic composting.
You might have heard of “aerobic” composting, the kind where you actively turn your pile to give it air. Anaerobic composting is the opposite – it works without air! It might seem a bit strange, but it’s a fantastic way to break down organic materials, especially if you have limited space or just want a low-effort system. And the best part? You can set it up for next to nothing. Let’s dig into how this genius, affordable method works.
What is Anaerobic Composting Anyway?
Before we get our hands dirty, let’s clear up what anaerobic composting actually means. “Anaerobic” simply means “without air.” So, anaerobic composting is a process where microorganisms break down organic matter in an environment that lacks oxygen. This is different from aerobic composting, which relies on oxygen-loving microbes and usually requires frequent turning of the compost pile.
Think of it like this: aerobic composting is a busy lunch crowd, lots of movement and air. Anaerobic composting is more like a quiet library, where different types of microbes do their work in a more still environment. Both get the job done, but anaerobic composting can be done in sealed containers or piles, making it ideal for certain situations.
Why Go Anaerobic and Save Money?
So, why choose anaerobic composting, especially when you’re trying to keep costs down? Here’s the lowdown:
- Cost-Effective Setup: You don’t need fancy bins or specialized equipment. We’ll show you how to use common household items or very inexpensive containers.
- Less Labor Intensive: Forget about turning your compost pile every few days. Anaerobic systems require minimal turning, if any, saving you time and effort.
- Great for Wet Materials: If your kitchen scraps tend to be a bit wet, anaerobic composting handles this well.
- Faster Breakdown (Sometimes): In some cases, especially with specific methods like vermicomposting (which can have anaerobic stages), you can see faster results.
- Odor Control (If Done Right): While sometimes associated with smells, a properly managed anaerobic system shouldn’t stink up your yard. We’ll cover how to avoid this!
The Genius (and Cheap!) Anaerobic Composting Method: The “No-Dig” Bucket System
My favorite cheap anaerobic composting method is what I like to call the “No-Dig Bucket System.” It’s incredibly simple, uses readily available materials, and you can get started for under $20, maybe even free if you’re resourceful!
What You’ll Need (The Bare Minimum!):
This is where we keep it super affordable. You likely have most of this already!
- A Sealable Container: This can be an old trash can with a lid, a large plastic storage tote with a secure lid, or even a food-grade bucket with a snap-on lid. The key is that it needs to seal well to keep air out. Look for these secondhand or ask friends if they have any spares!
- A Smaller Container or Bucket (Optional but Recommended): This will be used to collect food scraps before adding them to the main bin. An old ice cream bucket or a small plastic tub works perfectly.
- Some Soil or Finished Compost: This inoculates your new compost with the necessary microbes to get the breakdown process started. A shovel’s worth from a friend’s garden or a small bag from the dollar store is all you need.
- Kitchen Scraps and Yard Waste: Your “greens” (like fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, tea bags) and “browns” (like shredded newspaper, cardboard, dry leaves, small twigs).
- A Tool for Draining (Optional): If your bin doesn’t have drainage holes, you might eventually want to drill a few small ones in the bottom to release excess liquid. For a truly cheap method, you can just be mindful of how wet things get.
Setting Up Your “No-Dig Bucket” System: Step-by-Step
Let’s get this system rolling. It’s easier than you think!
- Prepare Your Container: Make sure your large container is clean. If it’s a brand new plastic tote, give it a rinse. If it’s a used trash can, a good scrub will do. Ensure the lid seals tightly. If you plan to add drainage holes later, you can do that now or wait. For a truly zero-cost setup, skip the holes and learn to manage moisture.
- Add Your First Layer of “Browns”: Start with a few inches of shredded, unbleached cardboard or newspaper, or a layer of dry leaves. This provides initial carbon and helps absorb moisture. Think of it as the bedding for your compost microbes.
- Add Your Soil/Inoculant: Sprinkle a generous layer of soil or finished compost over the “browns.” This is crucial! It introduces the anaerobic bacteria and fungi that will do the heavy lifting.
- Start Adding Kitchen Scraps (Greens): Begin adding your food scraps. Chop larger items into smaller pieces – this helps them break down faster. Fill your optional smaller collection bucket in the kitchen and then empty it into the main bin every few days.
- Bury Your Scraps: This is a key step for keeping odors down and encouraging anaerobic action. Every time you add kitchen scraps, cover them completely with a layer of “brown” material (leaves, shredded paper, sawdust) and then mix it in lightly with the layer below. You want to create pockets where the material is sealed off from the air.
- Layering is Key: Continue alternating layers: browns, then greens, burying the greens. You don’t need to be exact, but aim for a good mix. A general rule of thumb for traditional composting is more browns than greens, but in anaerobic systems, the microbes are a bit more forgiving. Just ensure no food scraps are exposed to the air.
- Seal It Up: Once your bin is about two-thirds full, or you’ve added your last batch of scraps, ensure the top layer is well-covered with browns. Then, put the lid on tightly. For truly anaerobic conditions, a tight seal is important.
- Wait and Let It Work: This is the “no-dig” part. You don’t need to turn it. The microbes will work their magic. Depending on the temperature and the materials, this can take anywhere from 3 to 12 months.
Managing Moisture
One of the trickiest parts of any composting, including anaerobic, is getting the moisture right. You want it damp, like a wrung-out sponge, not soaking wet and not bone dry.
- Too Wet: If you notice a lot of liquid pooling at the bottom (and you didn’t drill drainage holes), it might be too wet. Add more “brown” materials (cardboard, dry leaves) to absorb excess moisture.
- Too Dry: If it seems very dry and nothing is happening, you might need to add a little water. A cup or two, mixed in as best you can without completely exposing material, can help.
When is it Ready?
Your anaerobic compost is ready when it no longer looks like recognizable food scraps. It should be dark, crumbly, and have a pleasant, earthy smell (not rotten eggs or strong ammonia!).
What You CAN and CAN’T Compost Anaerobically (Cheap Edition)
Just like with any composting, there are a few things to keep in mind about what goes in your bin. For this cheap, simple method, stick to the basics:
Can Compost:
- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Coffee grounds and paper filters
- Tea bags (remove staples)
- Eggshells (crushed)
- Shredded newspaper (non-glossy)
- Cardboard (unbleached, torn into small pieces)
- Yard trimmings (grass clippings – in moderation, dry leaves, small twigs)
- Sawdust (from untreated wood)
Avoid Composting in this Simple System:
- Meat, dairy, or oily foods: These can attract pests and create really unpleasant odors without proper management, which is harder in a simple anaerobic bin.
- Diseased plants: The lower temperatures in some anaerobic systems might not kill pathogens.
- Weeds gone to seed: Same reason as diseased plants.
- Pet waste (dog/cat): Can contain harmful pathogens.
- Treated wood or coal ash: Contain harmful chemicals.
- Glossy or heavily inked paper/cardboard: Can contain non-compostable materials.
Pros and Cons of Cheap Anaerobic Composting
Every method has its ups and downs, and this affordable anaerobic approach is no different. Weighing them out helps you decide if it’s right for you.
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Extremely low startup cost (potentially free) | Breakdown can be slower than aerobic methods, especially in colder weather. |
| Minimal effort required; no turning needed. | Risk of odors if food scraps are not properly buried or if too much wet material is added. |
| Good for managing kitchen waste in smaller spaces. | Finished compost may not be as ‘hot’ or as thoroughly broken down as some aerobic composts, so it’s best used on established plants or aged for a bit longer. |
| Can handle wetter materials fairly well. | Requires careful management of moisture to avoid becoming a smelly sludge. |
| Environmentally friendly, diverts waste from landfills. | Difficult to monitor progress or ‘fix’ a smelly pile once sealed. |
| Simple to understand and implement for beginners. | Not ideal for large volumes of yard waste that would typically need aeration to break down effectively. |
Alternatives for Cheap Composting
While the bucket method is my go-to for super cheap and easy anaerobic composting, there are other budget-friendly options you might consider:
- Leach Field Composting: Dig a trench or hole in your garden, add scraps, cover with soil. It’s simple, but more a disposal method than producing a large batch of compost.
- Compost Tumblers (DIY): While commercial tumblers can be pricey, you can build your own from a repurposed plastic barrel and some hardware. These can be used aerobically or anaerobically. Look up “DIY compost tumbler” for plans.
- Pile Composting (with limited turning): If you have a bit more space, a simple pile in a corner of your yard can work. While ideally aerobic, if you don’t turn it much and cover it well, it will lean towards anaerobic. You can build a basic enclosure with scrap wood.
The key to keeping it cheap is to use what you have or find used materials. Old pallets make great compost bin walls, scrap lumber can build tumblers, and any sizable container can become a compost bin.
Why This Method is Great for Beginners
As Troy D Harn, I love seeing folks get into DIY and gardening. This method is fantastic for beginners because:
- Low Barrier to Entry: Seriously, you can start for free or very little money.
- Forgiving Nature: While not turning is the goal, if you accidentally aerate it a bit, it’s not the end of the world. It’s more forgiving than a high-maintenance system.
- Clear Goal: Your goal is simple: break down waste. You don’t need to monitor temperature extremes or pH levels.
- Visible Results: Seeing your kitchen scraps transform into rich soil is incredibly rewarding.
You’re not going to be churning out commercial-grade compost in 30 days, but you will be diverting waste and creating valuable soil amendments for your garden. For more information on the science behind decomposition, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) offers great resources on composting basics:
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with a simple system, things can pop up. Here’s how to tackle them:
- Smelly Pile (Rotten Egg or Ammonia Smell): This is the biggest concern with anaerobic composting. It usually means it’s too wet or there’s too much nitrogen (food scraps) and not enough carbon (browns).
- Fix: Add more dry “brown” materials like shredded cardboard, newspaper, or dry leaves. If it’s very wet, try to carefully mix in more browns. Ensure food scraps are always covered.
- No Signs of Decomposition After Weeks: The microbes might be dormant, or the conditions aren’t right.
- Fix: Check moisture. If it’s too dry, gently add a little water and mix. If it’s too cold, progress will be slow. Adding a shovelful of finished compost or garden soil can reintroduce active microbes. Ensure there’s a heat source available, but this is harder with sealed anaerobic systems.
- Pests (Flies, Rodents): If pests are a problem, your bin isn’t sealed well enough, or exposed food is the culprit.
- Fix: Ensure the lid is tight and all food scraps are completely buried under at least 4-6 inches of “brown” material. Avoid adding meat or dairy.
Using Your Cheap Anaerobic Compost
Once your compost is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling, it’s ready to enrich your garden! Since anaerobic composting often doesn’t get as hot as aerobic methods, the compost might contain more mature weed seeds or pathogens. Generally, this isn’t a major issue for home gardeners, but you can:
- Age it longer: Let it sit in a loose pile for a few extra weeks or months.
- Use it as a soil amendment: Mix it into your garden beds before planting.
- Top-dress plants: Spread a layer around existing plants, keeping it a few inches away from the stems.
- Use it in potting mixes: Blend it with perlite or vermiculite for container plants.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What’s the absolute cheapest way to start composting?
The cheapest way is to use a free, sealable container you already have (like an old trash can or tote) and start collecting kitchen scraps. Bury them in your garden or a simple pile and cover with leaves or soil. The bucket method described is very close to free if you have a lid and some soil!
Can I compost in an apartment with this method?
Yes, a sealed bucket system can work well for composting food scraps indoors or on a balcony. Just be extra mindful of covering food scraps to prevent odors and consider a “worm bin” (vermicomposting), which is a type of composting that can also break down materials with minimal air and is very apartment-friendly if you can get worms.
How long does anaerobic composting take?
It varies widely depending on temperature, materials, and moisture, but typically takes anywhere from 3 to 12 months, sometimes longer, for the material to become finished compost.
Will my anaerobic compost smell bad?
It shouldn’t if managed correctly. A healthy anaerobic compost pile should smell earthy. Strong, foul odors (like rotten eggs or ammonia) indicate it’s too wet or unbalanced. burying food scraps well and adding enough carbon material (browns) are key to odor control.
Is anaerobic compost as good as aerobic
I am passionate about home engineering. I specialize in designing, installing, and maintaining heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems. My goal is to help people stay comfortable in their homes all year long.
I am passionate about home engineering. I specialize in designing, installing, and maintaining heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems. My goal is to help people stay comfortable in their homes all year long.